Waren – Butzow: Approaching the Baltic Sea

Breakfast in Waren was a feast! When I booked Hotel Amsee, I felt cheated that I was lured into paying 10 Euros a head for breakfast. But it was so good! Big bowl of muesli, cheese roll, smoked salmon and eggs, fruit salad and cake with coffee and orange juice. We were stuffed.

The hotel was annexed to an old people’s home and I thought some of the breakfast guests were geriatrics, being visited by their children for the day. But then one of the oldest and most doddery-looking got on a bike with panniers and cycled off into the sunset.

Progress was quick, quick, slow, with a mix of fast, smooth tarmac (we call baby’s bottom), and rough, gravelly forest roads. Sorry for the preoccupation with road surface; it makes such a difference to progress and comfort. We have strong legs now; fatigue is not really a problem. Still some hurty bits need a break from time-to-time.

There is a change in landscape, accent and culture up here. It’s distinctly Baltic, one could almost be in Denmark already.

Bützow, where we spent the night, is an interesting small town, with apparently mediaeval buildings, some derelict, an old church with twisted spire a la Chesterfield, and some nice reconstruction going on around the Library, Museum and civic buildings.

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