Hairpin descent from Oberalppass down to Disentis (this is Caroline’s track – the even more cautious descender – because I forgot to start Strava). Curiously-painted and wooden buildings in villages along the way. Highway 19 became quite busy as we approached Ilanz so we took the off road route and then stopped for coffee. Then a biggish climb where I punctured and fixed at second attempt. Promised rain started up, though not the heavy thunderstorms we feared. Fell in with David and Judith, fellow Rheinradwegers from Norfolk, heavily-laden with camping gear. Great views over ‘our’ Vorderrhein, now cutting a great gorge, and then merging with the Hinterrhein at Reichenau, in a swirling vortex. Rolled down to the big city of Chur and our trickling snow melt is already a hefty river, less than 100km from its source. Chur was having a festival of street theatre, regrettably no Circus Fudge.